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Parfum als populäre Kommunikation? Zur Rolle von olfaktorischen Listen

Stäheli, Urs

Kulturwissenschaftliche Zeitschrift, Bd. 2024 (2024), Iss. 2: S. 176–206

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Bibliografische Daten

Stäheli, Urs

Abstract

The paper discusses different types of fragrance lists and their importance in contributing to olfactory popularity. While sales-based best-seller lists are crucial, they remain hidden from consumers unlike other areas of popular culture. Instead, social media lists based on indicators such as views have become important for the public perception of perfumery, creating a shift from sales figures to often viral social media communication. These lists are complemented by ›subjective‹ lists created by influencers and perfumistas, such as ›compliment getter‹, ›expert‹ and ›iconic‹ lists. The paper examines these lists in terms of the everyday life of perfumes and how they address the material olfactory dimension of success. The interplay between these different types of lists demonstrates hints at competing and interwoven ideas of popularity. The paper demonstrates that the classic high/low distinction, which originated in luxury perfumery, continues todominate an olfactory understanding of popularity, in contrast to a purely quantitative approach.