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“There is no place like home”

Migration and Cultural Identity of the Sonsorolese, Micronesia

Walda-Mandel, Stephanie

Heidelberg Studies in Pacific Anthropology, Bd. 5

2016

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Abstract

The remote island of Sonsorol with its unique culture and Language belongs to the Micronesian archipelago Palau in the Western Pacific. Based on intensive multi-sited fieldwork, this comprehensive ethnography analyzes the social transformation of a small island community caused by migration of a large number of its members. Long journeys with their outrigger canoes have always been cultural practice of the Sonsorolese people. Today, caused by global processes, their world has broadened and they move to destinations such as Guam, Saipan or the USA – faraway places that sometimes become a permanent home. In these even smaller dispersed communities in mostly urban centers, notions of home, belonging and nation take on new significance. Following their routes and footsteps, the author explores how mobility and change affect their cultural identity. In their own words, the Sonsorolese express their motifs, hopes and experiences and are shown as active decision makers in a changing world.

Inhaltsverzeichnis

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Cover C
Titel iii
Impressum iv
Contents v
List of Illustrations ix
Map 10
2.1: Location of Sonsorol Island 10
Plates 12
2.1: Hunting on Fanna (Sonsorol in the background 12
2.2: Sonsorolese flag 13
2.3: Arrival on Sonsorol 14
2.4: Children on Sonsorol 16
2.5: Wedding of Laura Ierago Miles and Joel Miles 39
3.1: Wanita (left) and Satu (right) with a baby in a swing in Echang 49
3.2: Sonsorolese women dancing at a village party in Echang 50
3.3: Catholic service in the Santa Maria Pillar church on Sonsorol 51
6.1: Traditional therapy for Mark’s broken arm 125
6.2: Raichy (left) cutting fish on Sonsorol 129
7.1: Dolores Sablan, the pioneer settler in Portland 157
8.1: The Sonsorolese men dancing in Malakal 221
8.2: Learning from the master carver how to carve a canoe 227
8.3: Students with their teacher and their Sonsorol story book 232
8.4: First born ceremony in Echang (photo Victoria Nestor 234
9.1: Young Southwest Islanders in Echang 263
Acknowledgements xi
1 Introduction 1
2 “Do You Know Paradise Island?” Sonsorol and Its Integration in the Palauan Archipelago 9
Dongosaro: Sonsorol 9
Belu’uera Belau: The Republic of Palau 24
History and Colonial Heritage of Palau 27
Methodological Reflection 38
3 “A Home away from Home.” Migration Destinations of the Sonsorolese 47
Echang 47
Saipan 53
Guam 55
Portland and Salem, Oregon 59
4 Who am I? Fundamental Notions of Identity from an Anthropological Perspective 67
Cultural Identity 67
Collective Identity 75
Ethnic Identity 79
5 An Assessment of Anthropological Key Terms in Migration Studies 83
Transnationalism and Migration 83
Diaspora 91
Nation, Home and Belonging 95
6 Traditional Sonsorolese Identity Markers 101
Community and Respect 105
Religious Faith and Gods 116
Mourning and Death 118
Chants 120
Healing Techniques 122
Food 126
Land Tenure 129
Tattoos and Hair 132
Navigation 135
Language 137
7 Daily Life of the Sonsorolese in a New Home 141
Causes for Sonsorolese Migration 144
The Solid Network of the Family: Chain Migration 154
Remittances and Staying in Touch 158
Home is not a Country, but a Feeling: Nostalgia and the Return Myth 166
Faith as a Unifying Force: The Catholic Church 180
Sports as an Identity-Forming Power 183
The Taste of Home: Sonsorolese Cooking 184
8 Challenges for the Sonsorolese Identity 187
Identity and Ethnicity 187
“The Small Heart“: Sonsorolese Children and the Educational System 197
“Echang Language”: Loss of the Sonsorolese Language 204
“The Money Comes from the Devil!”: Cultural Loss and Social Change 211
Struggling against Oblivion: Revitalization of the Sonsorolese Traditions 218
Transformations 233
9 “No More Typhoon, Go Home!” Self- and External Perception of Sonsorolese Identity 239
“They are Palauan Citizens, but they are not Palauans!” Discrimination and Self-Perception 239
“Don’t Go out with Tobian People or Guys, cause those People are not Good 262
Perception of the Sonsorolese by Members of the Residence Societies from outside Palau 265
Being In-between: Sonsorolese Children and Teenagers 269
Self-Identification of the Sonsorolese 278
10 Conclusion 287
11 Contributors 295
References 299
Index 325
Back Cover Back C